We, as the Designer Interviews ("DI") had the distinct pleasure and opportunity to interview award-winning, most creative and innovative Amanda Gerbasi ("AG").

Coming from a family of artists Amanda understands design as form of art, and art as an expression of freedom. Human culture is strongly expressed through art and jewellery is one of the oldest forms of art in the history of humankind. Creative design walks hand in hand with innovation. There has never been so much technology available to creatively innovate in design as there is today. Using her passion for both art and technology, Amanda strives to push the boundaries of jewellery design and manufacturing and is an enthusiastic participant in shaping the culture of our times.

Amanda Gerbasi Designs

We are pleased to share with you original and innovative design work by Amanda Gerbasi.

Designer Interview of Amanda Gerbasi:

DI: Could you please tell us more about your art and design background? What made you become an artist/designer? Have you always wanted to be a designer?

AG : I studied architecture in Brazil for a short period before I moved to the U.K. Although I enjoyed the design side I found the course in Brazil was very technical and did not focus on the creative side enough. Once in the U.K. I decided to study languages and literature – other passions of mine – and thought of becoming an interpreter or literary translator. My heart was not burning for it though. Then I was invited to do a work experience to possibly became a partner in a friend’s newly founded womenswear label. I loved the experience and during that time I found my mind bubbling with jewellery design ideas. The kind of designs I wanted to wear but could not find around. So instead of joining my friend’s I decided to start my own jewellery brand, KATTRI.

DI: Can you tell us more about your company / design studio?

AG : KATTRI is an independent brand envisioned by me. I wanted to create a modern, straightforward and no-frills brand. Besides the branding I also created the name KATTRI. The double “T” is a reference to the mathematical symbol “Pi”, representing the precision involved in jewellery design and manufacturing.

DI: What is "design" for you?

AG : Design for me is a form of art and all arts for me are expressions of freedom. This freedom is born out of the desire human beings have of searching and creating something outside themselves. Of expanding and becoming something more than what we are.

DI: What is your most favorite design, could you please tell more about it?

AG : My favourite design is actually the ring I won this award with, the Tetrahedron Ring. This is because not only I had a clear vision of what I wanted to achieve but it was also the most challenging piece of jewellery I have designed to this day. To the 3D modelling on CAD to convincing the lapidary to cut the stone in that shape and dimensions.

DI: What is your favorite material / platform / technology?

AG : From the time I learned how to use CAD/CAM software I felt in love with it. I just find it amazing to be able to create in 3D and have such an accurate vision of the piece as you designed it. It is especially useful during the initial development phase when I am testing different aspects of the design – such as the thickness of the sections or the angle of an element – that can seem unimportant but have an enormous effect on the final result.

DI: When do you feel the most creative?

AG : I think creativity needs space to manifest itself. So if I have to deal with a lot of other things I feel my creativity can get a bit stifled. So I believe is important to set aside some time in the day, week or month to dedicate fully to creativity. I think like anything the more you exercise it the better it becomes.

DI: Which aspects of a design do you focus more during designing?

AG : For me design is primarily a matter of aesthetics. I automatically think of form before anything else. After I have a fairly clear image of what I want to achieve aesthetically I start to think of function and how to combine the two without losing the essence of the form I envisioned.

DI: What kind of emotions do you feel when you design?

AG : I feel excited to (hopefully) be creating something new to bring into existence. At the same time, I feel a sort of serenity or equanimity to be so completely absorbed in something outside myself. Although you could say that those ideas are coming from my mind the focus of my existence at those moments is not on me and the stories, memories and hopes of my ‘self’. At that time, only that piece of jewellery exists.

DI: What kind of emotions do you feel when your designs are realized?

AG : I feel an incredible anticipation when I am about to see my designs realized. If I am satisfied with the result, I feel elated. Finally, I feel fascinated by the design itself – as I feel with any design that I am attracted (by other people).

DI: What makes a design successful?

AG : In my experience a design is successful when I follow my instincts and pursue an idea or inspiration I am passionate about and not when I pursue a trend. I believe it is when I am being true to myself that my creativity really shines and I am able to create something authentic. Furthermore, a successful design must possess a timeless quality.

DI: How do you think the "design field" is evolving? What is the future of design?

AG : We are witnessing so many amazing scientific and technological advancements in our time and these allow the design field to evolve in incredible ways. In the jewellery industry direct metal laser sintering in precious metals allows designs with incredibly thin sections to be made. The laser torch allows to only a very small and precise area to be heated which enables other gemstones besides diamonds to be set in ways that would not have been possible without it – like the setting in the Tetrahedron ring.

DI: Where does the design inspiration for your works come from? How do you feed your creativity? What are your sources of inspirations?

AG : I studied architecture briefly and I love visiting architecture blogs and websites. I also like furniture and lighting design very much and visit website of these too. However, my inspiration usually just comes from all that I am exposed to in daily life. The world is such a dynamic and globalized place and inspirations are everywhere, I usually just need to decide which ones to pursue.

DI: How would you describe your design style? What made you explore more this style and what are the main characteristics of your style? What's your approach to design?

AG : At present I would describe my style as evolving. I started with very minimal designs with very few lines and no details and went onto more complex geometric shapes. Now I am veering towards more organic (non-figurative) designs. My approach to design is intuitive therefore what leads me to explore such styles are unconscious forces paired with my evolving aesthetic taste. I do not wish to limit myself to a single style as I believe change is life itself.

DI: Can you talk a little about your design process?

AG : I start researching and collecting references related to the idea or inspiration I have in mind. I then contemplate and evolve the idea further in my mind. I then sketch it out or go straight to model it on CAD/CAM software in the case of a geometric design. If it is an organic design, I source an appropriate material to work with my hands to explore the shapes I have mind. Once the overall form is defined I start to refine the design in terms of proportion, angles and thicknesses. I then decide the colours of the metal and of the gemstones. Finally, I determine the finish on the metal and the type of chain and fastenings.

DI: From your perspective, what would you say are some positives and negatives of being a designer?

AG : The most positive thing about being a designer in my opinion is that you are bringing beautiful things into existence and that for me is the best thing ever! The negative part I believe is that a lot designers struggle with the commercial side of things and wish they didn’t have to deal with it. I am a great example of this. I find it very difficult and really dislike it. I wish I could only design beautiful things without ever having to deal with the money side.

DI: What is your "golden rule" in design?

AG : Avoid compromising the design. Don't give in easily. Push yourself (and others if you work in a team) to find a solution that does not compromise the design.

DI: Designing can sometimes be a really time consuming task, how do you manage your time?

AG : Even though I design jewellery which has a completely different life span than clothes I follow the fashion calendar. Therefore, there are two main times in the year where I focus on to launch new collections and participate in trade fairs and exhibitions. The whole year is organized around these times and so there’s a timeline for designing and developing the collections.

DI: How can people contact you?

AG : Companies or shops interested in partnerships can contact me at sales@kattri.com and press can contact me at press@kattri.com